Our first meal takes place on a dusty sidewalk.
The scents are all new.
Our table takes up half the sidewalk and
we are constantly jostled by passing tourists,
little kids up way past their bedtime,
prostitutes, beggars and the like.
I hover over the stalls
trying to decide.
There is rice vermicelli, slighty thicker than our beehoon,
yet thinner than laksa noodles.
These noodles can be accompanied by
a green curry of chicken feet and congealed pig blood
or a fragrant thai laksa gravy swimming with fish balls
At other stall the rest of the gang are swarming over
a Koay Teow Th'ng type dish.
Suddenly a fight breaks out.
A prostitute has thrown her shoe at the head of another
(who I presume, got the man)
The other girl is livid, and takes off her own shoe and throws it back
then the are hobbling towards each other
each with a shoe on
there is a screaming match
before they lunge
a flurry of hair
red nails
and curses
I opt for Thai Laksa.
She dips the noodles in hot water to soften and warm them
She dips for gravy to pour over.
It is thick, fragrant,
but nowhere near as pungent or fishy as our version.
The bowl arrives in front of me.
Her part is done.
This is where it gets fun, the part that I love about Thai streetfood.
She has furnished me with the basics
noodles and a delicious liquid base
when the bowl is set in front of you
it is time for you to make what you want of it.
The table is laden with goodies,
fresh herbs, blanched veg,
and condiments such as chilli flakes, sugar,
fiery slices of orangey peppers, fish sauce and chilli oil.
I pluck dill and sweet basil
sprinkling feathery green shreds over my gravy
I dip into the crunchy beansprouts
I dip into the crisp longbeans
I dip with my condiment spoon
chilli flakes, sugar
a dash of fish sauce
I toss it all together and taste.
It is an explosion of flavours and textures on my tongue
sweet, sour, salty
creamy,crunchy, smooth, cool
then chilli.
The heat is fiery, numbing.
By the time I am finished my lips are
red and swollen.
It is at times like these when I most appreciate a ciggarette.
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